During the last six weeks I have had the pleasure of hanging out with my son, Rayen, and daughter, Kira. We have been surfing, body whomp'n, skateboarding, and all that a southern California kids can do. It's amazing to see them grow up so fast.
Oh Man!!! Today is a good day. My neighbor stopped by and asked if I wanted to paddle out. I was all over it because earlier around 10:30 this morning I had already seen the overhead swell and glassy conditions. We just paddled out right here off of Santa Cruz Street. It was a bit of a rough paddle gett'n out but well worth it. I had to sit outside for awhile to regain my energy before I could even paddle over to where he was so we could talk between sets.
One of the best sessions I have ever had was with 3 other friends in South Mission Beach, CA. We all met up one summer day when the water was just starting to warm up. During that day we were visited by a family of dolphins. One very curious dolphin swam right to my friend James and checked out him and his board. I paddled over to were they were, which, was just five feet away, and I began to get a little afraid. I know they are just dolphins, but this is their domain and I don't want to threaten them with my presence because they did have their kid with hem. You can never be too cautious.
So, one September day after some home made fish tacos with Joaquin Tena and a few mixed drinks to wash down our sorrows I'm asked if I want to go skate. Well, duh I'm on it, let's go. So, with a major buzz on I meet up with some friends at the Coronado Skate park and begin my session. I'm just having fun carving the same old lines and so on. There is a camera around so of course the little grommets flock to where ever it is pointing like flies on shit. So, most of the time, I just got about my session where the grommets are not. This is cool because now they are not in my way.
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